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Interlining Knowledge

Interlining

Date:Dec-11 2019 Author:Changrui Interlining Reading:

Interpretation

Garment interlining is a large category of clothing accessories, which plays a skeleton role in clothing. Just like building a house, you need to use reinforced concrete as a skeleton; if you are making clothes, you need to use a interlining as a skeleton. Through the shape, reinforcement and shape retention of the interlining, the garment can form a beautiful style of various colors.

The interlining is based on woven fabrics, knitted fabrics and non-woven fabrics, with (or without) thermoplastic polymer compounds, and is specially processed by special machinery for the inner layer of the garment to strengthen and stiffen, special clothing accessories that are bonded (or non-adhesive) to the fabric.
In simple terms, it is actually the garment outer fabric, the garment inner lining, and the interlining is the middle. Therefore, under normal circumstances, the interlining cannot be directly seen, but any need to form a stiff, full feel, smooth transition, and reinforcement. The location is covered by the interlining.
 
 

Interlining classification

(1) Garment interlining: refers to a kind of textile material used in the inner layer of various parts of clothing in order to display the characteristics of clothing design.
(2) Base fabric: commonly known as base fabric, woven fabric for lining.
(3) Cotton interlining: A cotton cloth or burlap which has not been finished or only sizing and hardened. It is a relatively original interlining.
(4) Horse hair interlining: also known as wool interlining, is made of cotton, chemical fiber, wool pure or blended as light yarn, chemical fiber and yak hair or other animal hair blended as weft yarn, woven into the base fabric, and a interlining made of resin.
(5) resin interlining: cotton or chemical fiber purely woven or blended woven or knitted fabric, interlining made by resin finishing or other finishing, and finished by resin. Referred to as resin interlining.
(6) Woven (or knitted) hot-melt adhesive interlining: woven or knitted fabrics of cotton and chemical fiber purely or blended, which are made by bleaching or dyeing and other finishing, and uniformly coated by thermoplastic hot melt adhesive. Interlining. Referred to as the woven adhesive interlining.
(7) Non-woven hot-melt adhesive interlining: also known as non-woven adhesive interlining. It refers to the interlining made of the nonwoven fabric after being coated by thermoplastic hot melt adhesive. Stitched nonwoven interlining also fall into this category.
Horse hair interlinig, resin interlining, woven (including knitting) hot-melt adhesive lining and non-woven hot-melt lining are four series of modern interlinings. In addition, there are a variety of other linings and accessories, such as tie lining, linen lining, waist lining and waist lining and sub-master tape, pockets, shoes and hats, etc.
 
The interlining is the garment skeleton, and the good interlining is the essence of the garment, especially the application of the modern interlining, which makes the garment styling and the sewing process have unexpected effects. The function of the interlining can be roughly summarized into the following aspects:
1. Give the garment a good curve and body shape;
2. Enhance the clothing's rigidity and flexibility, and enhance the three-dimensional sense;
3. Improve the drape of the garment and the feel of the fabric to enhance the comfort of the garment;
4. Increase the thickness, fullness and heat preservation of the garment;
5. To prevent deformation of the clothing, so that the clothing to maintain the original shape after washing;
6. Reinforce certain parts of the garment.
The interlining is the "skeleton" and "essence" of the clothing, especially the application of modern new interlining, but the shape and sewing of the clothing have unexpected effects.
 

Interlining application

The parts used for the interlining: the front piece of the garment, the inner gusset, the collar, the head, the back piece, the mouth of the bag, the flap, the belt, the collar, the sill, the cuff, the welt, the sleeve, the mouth, the hem Mouth, sleeve fork, etc.
Adhesive interlining, woven interlining, non-woven interlining, inlay interlining, double interlining, waist interlining, shirt interlining, outer interlining, suede interlining, composite interlining, etc.
 

Production Process

Non-woven interlining:

Non-woven interlining produce
the raw material of the non woven interlining is going into the machine→Raw material into the machine→high temperature rolling→Backing into the shape→Non woven interlining coating→Rewinding→Packing


Woven interlining:

woven interlining produce
Filament preparing→High-speed sectional warping machine→Water→jet machine weaving yarn→Backing systemizing→Woven interlining coating→Rolling-Finished product→Packing and shipping
 

Interlining and fabric bonding

1. It can be firmly bonded to the fabric. After bonding, it is soft and rich in stiffness and resilience. The fabric surface is wrinkled and recovered quickly.
2. The bonding temperature is low, the water shrinkage is coordinated with the fabric.
3. The adhesive coating amount is uniform, the fixing amount is uniform, the adhesive has no leakage, and it is resistant to death, and the long-term storage adhesive property is also unchanged.
4. When arranging, the interlining do not stick to each other, not stick scissors, not stick sewing needles, sewing machine, and smooth when feeding.
5. does not damage the physiology of clothing, such as breathability.
 

Prerequisites for bonding the interlining to the fabric

1. Bonding machine: The bonding machine including drum type and flat type.
2. Bonding conditions: bonding conditions include bonding temperature, pressing time and pressure. There is a certain connection between the three elements in a certain range. When the temperature is increased and the pressure is increased, the pressing time can be relatively shortened, and vice versa. If the temperature is too high and the pressing time is too long, the performance and color of the fabric are easily damaged, and the rubber is easily generated, and the pressure is too large, which easily damages the appearance of the fabric (especially the thin fabric).
3. Selection of bonding conditions: Before mass production, the bonding conditions must be tested repeatedly to determine the optimum process conditions (the gasket supplier should provide bonding conditions for reference when testing samples).
4. After the interlining is bonded to the fabric. Strip it off. If the hot melt adhesive is evenly distributed on the lining and the fabric, the bonding conditions are appropriate, otherwise it should be retested. After bonding, the fabric should be flat, wrinkle-free, bubble-free, and transparent. Testing the peeling strength, dry cleaning, and water washing performance after bonding and the test results shall meet the customer requirements. The effect of bonding should meet the style and characteristics of the garment.
 

Interlining application introduction

Suits

Interlining Application
The suit is synonymous with rigorous and solemn, so the workmanship is more sophisticated. The interlining choice has thick and heavy, large-area features to highlight the shape of the formal wear. The interlining is the skeleton of the garment, the good interlining is the essence of the garment, especially modern interlining application, which makes the garment styling and sewing process have unexpected effects. The function of the interlining on the suit can be roughly summarized into the following aspects:
1. Give the suit a good curve and body shape;
2. Enhance suit the suitability, flexibility and the three-dimensional sense;
3. Improve suit drape and fabric feel, and enhance garment comfort;     
4. Increase suit thickness, fullness and heat preservation;
5. To prevent suit deformation, to ensure original shape after washing;
6. Reinforce suits some parts;
 

Coat

Interlining Application
The adhesive interlining used on the coat mainly has the front body, the side mouth, the parts and the special parts; the coat fabric is mostly made of woolen or relatively high-grade cotton and linen fabric, so the coat front interlining is the main interlining, mainly for the shape. So in the predecessor with the adhesive interlining should consider the compatibility with the fabric; the edge of the mouth generally refers to the threshold, neckline, cuffs, pockets and other parts of the use of a relatively thin and thin non-woven adhesive interlining. Although the parts are inconspicuous, they also play a role in shaping and fixing the coat. For example, the lead needs to use a more washable adhesive interlining. it is necessary to pay attention to adhesive interlining feel; the coat special part has the hem of the coat, which needs to be stressed by the oblique force, it is necessary to select the interlining for reinforcement.
 

Jacket

Interlining Application jacket
The jacket adheisve interlining is mainly at the edge of the jacket, generally adopts a thin and non-woven adhesive interlining, such as an inner sill (sill, neckline, cuff, sling bag) and a bright part. In terms of the components of the jacket (such as the collar, cuffs, placket, lid of the pocket, etc.), it is necessary to consider the feel and washability of the adhesive interlining. For special parts (such as the round hem, the sill stop, the collar) It is necessary to select the inlay lining for reinforcement.
Interlining


Silk fabric clothing

Silk fabric clothing
Silk fabrics are heat sensitive materials, interlining choice must consider bonded temperature for interlining and the fabric. It is suitable to choose the low-temperature adhesive interlining, which not only ensures the sturdy and drape of the silk garment, but also ensures the good curve and shape of the silk garment.


Casual wear

Casual wear interlining
Casual wear is synonymous with casual and casual style. It is based on “leisure” and uses more comfortable materials. Most of the interlining is used locally in casual wear. Try to keep the texture of the material as much as possible, such as the elegant silk, the draping of the georgette. Therefore, the interlining application in casual wear is mainly to give the casual wear a good curve and body shape, enhance casual wear stiffness and elasticity and three-dimensional sense.


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